I was introduced to Viren Bhagat in 2009 or 2010 by a mutual friend during one of my occasional visits to Bombay, now Mumbai. I’m a journalist, and I was there to write about something or other—not about Viren, in any case. So, this was a purely social introduction, a happy accident. We hit it off immediately. The conversation flowed easily. Naturally, we talked a lot about jewellery, but we talked about all kinds of other things as well—mainly Mumbai, which I love but know only superficially, and which he loves and knows deeply. Other meetings followed, in London and back in Mumbai. Eventually, in 2012, I wrote a longish story about him for the magazine I was working for at the time. Viren was already famous by then, a legend in the jewellery world, and his reputation has only continued to grow in the years since.

People often ask me what he’s like as a person and what I think of him as a jeweller.

As a jeweller, Viren’s one of the very best and, like all the very best, exists in a category of one. He’s often compared to JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) or Jacques Cartier, and such comparisons are perfectly understandable—though I’d say they’re better understood not as comparisons, exactly, but rather as compliments, as a measure of brilliance and originality, not likeness. These jewellers have transcended the profession of precious craftsmanship to some extent, and have paved the way for collectors to reimagine what ‘jewellery’ actually means.

You could study photographs of Viren’s lean, expressive face and extrapolate from his eyes and features a combination of seriousness, soulfulness, and amusement.

This would be entirely accurate. And the amusement is, I think, crucial. He’s got a great sense of humour and, though he’s a kind, solicitous, and generous man, he occasionally enjoys a gentle practical joke. For example, on one of my trips to Mumbai, I joined Viren and his wife at a cocktail party at the Gymkhana…

Read the full story in the special ‘Joaillerie Market’ issue of LuxeTrope, on stands now.

Few natural treasures command the kind of reverence Melo Melo pearls inspire. Found deep within the waters of Southeast Asia—from the South China Sea to the Andaman Coast—these rare gems are produced not from oysters but from Melo Melo: a large predatory sea snail known as the Indian volute or bailer shell. 

Historically, these radiant pearls were incorporated into royal Asian folklore as “dragon pearls,” owing to their vibrant orange colour and flame-like patterns. Centuries later, they continue to be one of the most coveted treasures in high jewellery—appealing to the world’s most discerning collectors.

Unlike classic oysters or South Sea cultured pearls, Melo Melo pearls are completely non-nacreous and occur exclusively through natural phenomena. Standard pearls derive their sheen from layers of nacre; Melo Melo pearls are composed of calcite and aragonite, yielding a smooth, porcelain-like lustre. 

Their true magic lies in their flame-like chatoyancy—a phenomenon where fibrous structures beneath the surface reflect light, creating a shimmering effect similar to flickering flames. While colours range from soft tan to deep brown, it is the rich mandarin orange hue with visible flame patterns that defines the pinnacle of desirability. 

Why are these gems so rare? Simply put, Melo Melo pearls cannot be cultured. Every single specimen is 100 per cent natural, discovered purely by chance by regional fishermen. Additionally, only one in several thousand Melo snails will ever produce a pearl, and it takes decades for one to grow to a wearable size. Furthermore, only a small fraction of those harvested exhibit the fiery orange saturation and pattern that collectors demand.

Because Melo Melo pearls command prices scaling into hundreds of thousands of dollars, verifying provenance and lab certification is of utmost importance. Top gemmological laboratories such as GIA or SSEF issue precise reports verifying origin, composition, and absence of artificial enhancement or polishing. 

Without a reputable lab report confirming authenticity, a prospective Melo pearl should never be acquired. Instead, choose a reputable auction house or verified private estates. 

Given their zero-commercial supply, you will not find Melo Melo pearls in standard luxury retail boutiques or maisons. Blue-chip auction houses are the way to go as they periodically feature loose Melo Melo pearls or bespoke high jewellery settings in their auctions. Esteemed ateliers that specialise in rare natural pearls work directly with private collectors to source authentic loose specimens. 

For those patient enough to seek them out, acquiring a Melo Melo pearl is far more than an investment in fine jewellery—it is a rare chance to own a piece of nature’s unrepeatable magic.

In the world of luxury jewellery, rarity and provenance have become just as important as diamonds and gemstones. Collectors are increasingly drawn to vintage creations with remarkable histories, transforming auctions into destinations where craftsmanship, heritage and storytelling command premium prices.

One of the biggest examples was the record-breaking sale of royal Indian jewels, featuring treasures from the Nizam of Hyderabad and the princely families of Jaipur, Baroda and Indore. Spanning centuries of craftsmanship, these heirlooms proved that history can be as valuable as the gemstones themselves.

The Auction Effect

This growing appetite is also visible closer to home. Rare vintage jewels—including meena gajra bracelets, a Rajasthani bodla and a kundan-set polki chand haar—generated intense bidding at recent AstaGuru auctions, reflecting rising demand for collectible Indian jewellery. Buyers today aren’t simply purchasing ornaments; they’re investing in pieces with enduring cultural and artistic significance.

Old Gold, New Opportunities

The boom isn’t limited to auction houses. Across India’s jewellery retail market, consumers are increasingly exchanging existing jewellery to finance fresh purchases. As gold prices remain elevated, exchange programmes have become a preferred way to upgrade collections without making entirely new investments.

The result is a thriving secondary market where heirloom jewellery finds new owners, while existing collections help fund modern acquisitions. Together, these trends are reshaping how Indians buy, sell and value fine jewellery.

Read the full story in the special ‘Joaillerie Market’ issue of LuxeTrope, on stands now.

Natural diamonds are among Earth’s oldest treasures, with some dating back as far as 3.5 billion years. Forged from crystallised carbon under immense heat and pressure deep beneath the Earth’s surface before being carried upward by volcanic activity, every natural diamond is the product of a remarkable geological journey.

Their rarity continues to make them one of the world’s most coveted gemstones. Russia holds the largest known diamond reserves, followed by Botswana, while countries including the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Angola, Canada and South Africa remain key contributors to global production.

From Bronze Age fasteners to coveted auction treasures, brooches are reclaiming their place as wearable works of art that blend history, craftsmanship and timeless elegance.

Long before they became symbols of luxury, brooches served a practical purpose. Dating back to the Bronze Age, they were used to fasten cloaks and garments. Over centuries, however, they evolved into exquisite expressions of artistry, reflecting the design movements, craftsmanship and cultural influences of their time. Today, these versatile jewels are enjoying a remarkable revival, worn not only on lapels but also on dresses, hats, turbans and even as striking hair accessories.

The renewed interest has extended to the auction market, where collectors are seeking exceptional brooches that combine rarity with historical significance. Auction houses such as AstaGuru and Giftex.in have witnessed growing demand for vintage and contemporary brooches, making these intricate creations increasingly desirable as both statement accessories and heirloom investments.

For generations, the value of high jewellery was measured by its carat weight, clarity and origin. But seasoned collectors have long known that a remarkable story can elevate a jewel far beyond the value of its precious stones. Pieces once owned by icons, royalty and celebrated collectors continue to command extraordinary prices because of the history they carry.

Today, that story has gone digital. Provenance is no longer confined to auction catalogues and printed records. Cinematic videos, social media and immersive online campaigns have reshaped how collectors discover and connect with exceptional jewellery, creating excitement long before the first bid is placed.

The shift began in the late 1990s with landmark auctions such as the Estate of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Demand to view the collection was so overwhelming that thousands entered a lottery simply for a chance to attend the preview. One standout lot—the Lesotho III diamond ring by Harry Winston—was estimated at $500,000 to $600,000, but ultimately sold for an astonishing $2.6 million, demonstrating the immense value of provenance even before the digital era.

That success laid the foundation for today’s luxury auction market, where storytelling, emotion and history often influence bidding as much as rarity and craftsmanship.

Read the full story in the special ‘Joaillerie Market’ issue of LuxeTrope, on stands now.