The Case for Small Watches

For years, oversized watches dominated the market. Today, along with large cases, smaller timepieces, too, are enjoying renewed attention. Collectors are returning to refined proportions, vintage designs and watches that make a statement without demanding attention. As a result, small case watches are becoming an increasingly important part of the auction market.

A Growing Trend

Auction figures reveal the scale of this shift. The number of small-case watches sold at auction rose from 14,315 in FY 2021 to 37,595 in FY 2025. This steady increase reflects changing tastes among collectors and a renewed appreciation for classic watch design.

Moreover, smaller watches are no longer seen as exclusively feminine. While many historic models were designed for women, collectors today value them for their craftsmanship, rarity and distinctive character. Meanwhile, vintage designs are influencing contemporary collections, encouraging brands to reconsider case sizes.

What Collectors Are Looking For

Heritage remains a powerful draw. Vintage Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe models continue to attract interest, particularly when they combine rare materials, compelling designs and strong provenance.

For instance, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava models demonstrate how smaller proportions can complement timeless styling. Similarly, Cartier’s petite designs show how distinctive case shapes and jewellery-inspired details can give a watch lasting appeal.

The trend also extends beyond aesthetics. At auctions, rarity and condition can influence a watch’s desirability as much as its size. Consequently, collectors are looking beyond conventional sports watches to explore more varied and individual pieces.

Inside the Auction Market

The growing interest in smaller watches is reflected in auction data. In FY 2025–26, watches with cases measuring up to 28 mm accounted for 42.18 per cent of watches sold in the category tracked by the report.

This shift also highlights the appeal of different movements. Automatic and manual watches featured prominently in reported auction sales, while quartz models continued to attract buyers. Therefore, the market offers opportunities for collectors with different interests and budgets.