The Icons That Defined High Jewellery

For generations, legendary maisons such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Bvlgari and Tiffany & Co. have set the benchmark for exceptional jewellery. Their creations are more than exquisite ornaments, they are milestones in design history that continue to command admiration decades after they were first conceived.

Among Cartier’s most celebrated masterpieces is the Tiger’s Eye Turban Ornament, created in 1937 for Maharaja Digvijaysinhji of Nawanagar. Inspired by the traditional Indian sarpech, the Art Deco creation combined a striking 61.56-carat diamond with Cartier’s unmistakable design language. Equally influential was the Collier Hindou, whose bold use of carved gemstones laid the foundation for what would later become the celebrated Tutti Frutti collection.

Another enduring icon is Bvlgari’s Serpenti. First introduced as a bracelet-watch in 1948, the collection evolved during the 1960s into the lifelike serpent motif that became synonymous with the Italian maison. Its flexible Tubogas construction, diamond-set details and unmistakable silhouette transformed it into one of the most recognisable jewellery designs ever created.

The Serpenti’s legendary status was cemented when Elizabeth Taylor wore the iconic bracelet-watch while filming Cleopatra in Rome. Her admiration for Bvlgari helped turn the collection into a global symbol of glamour, and today vintage Serpenti creations remain highly sought-after at auction.

From royal patrons to Hollywood legends, these masterpieces demonstrate how exceptional craftsmanship, bold design and remarkable provenance can transform jewellery into enduring icons of luxury.

Discover more stories celebrating the world’s greatest jewellery masterpieces in the latest issue of Luxetrope—India’s premier luxury intelligence magazine.